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The migrant style, while finding personal and individual declinations each time, has constants capable of telling the story of the world, of its commercial exchanges, of colonial and media powers, of its myths.
B&W -Black&white Lab.
MACRO Asilo
The B&W Laboratory is an appointment of artistic investigation on the Migrant Style. A style that, despite personal and individual variations, looks unique with certain fixed elements that tell us much about the history of the world, of trade, of colonial and media power, and its myths.
It is also an educational format of cultural encounters and a networking event between tailoring and migrant fashion realities and an in-depth study on issues related to intercultural fashion.
THE MIGRANT TREND
The first edition of the B&W Laboratory activated by Nation25 with the artistic direction of Caterina Pecchioli and the collaboration of A.I. Artisanal Intelligence and Fum Studio took place at the Macro Asilo , Museum of Contemporary Art in Rome , during 4 weeks between June and October 2019, with the support of Progetto Agata Smeralda Onlus.
The B&W Lab brought together fashion professionals, students, creatives, artists, young visionaries, tailors, both Italians and migrants.
The workshop included, in addition to the artistic workshop, a series of masterclasses, meetings and round tables on the debated themes of cultural appropriation, ethical and sustainable fashion, tailoring techniques and brand identity in which took part, among others. : Vogue Italia, Moleskine Foundation, Fashion Revolution. Migrant realities, fashion experts and communication professionals met also to discuss together the launch of the B&W platform in support of migrant fashion.
Finally, from 7 to 13 October, the B&W Factory was held for the design and production of a fashion accessory inspired by migrant fashion with the didactic support of the Costume & Fashion Academy.
The participants, both: asylum seekers and refugees from Africa, Meddle East and Asia together with Italians took an active role in the research process.
We started from the observation on how participants were daily dressed, their wardrobe, that led to discussions on identity. We observed the transformations in the way people dress before, during and after their journey, with the use of “Facebook Mood Boards” made by the participants. They made a selection of photos taken from their socialmedia profiles which allowed them to identify the elements of their own style and to discuss the choices in the way they dress. What is more, during the first phase of the workshop, we studied, wore and photographed clothes created by young tailors who are migrants. This led to analyze not only everyday clothes, but also the kind of clothes conceived and made by migrants in Italy
(Caterina Pecchioli, Quaderni, Ed. Macro Asilo)
Foto: Giorgio Sacher
The participatory workshop involved about thirty boys and girls including: asylum seekers from the reception network of Rome, Rieti, Viterbo, Tivoli, Treviso. Young asylum seekers from the Civico Zero center for unaccompanied minors (Rome), women with international protection with a sartorial background from the "Trame Libere" Atelier (Rieti), young asylum seekers from the "Talking Hands" fashion Atelier (Treviso) 'professional institutes of art, design and fashion in Rome.
B & W-Lab. and AtWork by the Moleskine Foundation
Moleskine Foundation supported the B&W-Black & White project by sharing the concept and objectives. The participants of the B&W lab. were invited to produce their “trendbooks” on a Moleskine notebook (intended as an educational device) and some of them were selected to be able to participate in the Venetian stage of the AtWork Tour “Where is South?”, led by Simon Njami.
“Black & White” and “Where is South?” shared the goal of questioning the ideologies and stereotypes linked to the South of the world. Migrant fashion shows a simultaneity of different influences and traditions that liberates and confuses a pre-established image by clearing a precise ideological position of the cardinal points. In the collective setting of AtWork, the aim was to continue to examine more closely the issue on identity and rethink perspectives regarding ourselves and our position in the world. During AtWork “Where is South?” the participants realized a personal Moleskine notebook that visualizes their personal vision of South.
The participants of B&W-Black & White Lab. who obtained the Moleskine Foundation scholarship to participate in the "Where is South?" workshop were Hina John , Nosakhare Ekhator , Lamin Saidy and Wendorlink Zerpa, artist and designer. In addition, the young designer Victor Abbey-Hart , an AtWork participant, joined the B&W lab in October.
B&W on Folios # 3 Ed. Moleskine Foundation 2020
MY SOUTH IS
Limited edition of silk scarf.
"My South is" is a foulard born from the collaboration between Moleskine Foundation, B&W-Black&White, Nation25 and the Puntoseta company (technical sponsor of the B&W Lab) which beautifully made the 20 pieces.
"My South is Rebirth", "My South is Spectacular" and "My South is Dreams" are just some of the many definitions of South of the "Where is South?" workshop participants, that are here imprinted as stamps on the silk.
The scarves were worn by the crew of the Kleronia boat, "The Human Boat", to help spread the message that the asylum seekers have formulated during AtWork Venice and disseminated by the boat in collaboration with Moleskine Foundation and UNHCR , the United Nations Refugee Agency, during the Barcolana 2019 in Trieste.
Credits :
The B&W lab. was organized by Nation25 with AI Artisanal Intelligence and FUM Studio, with the artistic direction of Caterina Pecchioli
In collaboration with Accademia Costume & Moda, Atelier Trame Libere, Moleskine Foundation, Nosa Collezione, Moustapha Sylla, Talking Hands - Con le Mani mi Racconto.
With the participation of Accademia di Alta Moda Koefia, Afrosartorialism, Agenzia Olivia Mariotti & Co, Cartiera, Fashion Revolution Italia, IED Rome and Milan, Iuav Venice, Lai-momo, Progetto LaMin, Sala1 Rome, The Sewing Cooperative, Vogue Italia, Civico Zero, Sprar Wel(c)home and Idea Prisma 82 .
Technical sponsor: Puntoseta
With the support of: Progetto Agata Smeralda Onlus.
Migrant realities of fashion and training that took part in the workshops and participated in the round tables: Atelier Trame Libera (Rieti), Talking Hands (Treviso), Progetto LaMin (Rome, Syracuse), Cartiera (Lama di Reno, Marzabotto, Bologna), Coloriage Laboratorio (Rome), Midé Project (Rome), The Sewing Cooperative (Rome), Moustapha Sylla (Sylla Sarto), Victor Abbey-Hart (Gavachy), Nosakhare Ekhator (Nosa Collezione), Temporary Roots (Action Women, Castel Volturno, CE).
B&Wlab participants: Francesca Paiella, Hina John, Gifth Esemota, Gift Olomu, Jessica Ebite, Gift Ese Asemota, Tracy Destiny Monday, Joy Animam, Joy Aboilaror, Madjdiya Biao, Lamin Saidi, Federica Ciacci, Cherif Niag, Omar Diallo, Studenti dell'Istituto Diaz with the photographer Monica Biancardi, Nosakhare Ekhator, Victor Abbey-Hart, Mary Gehnyei, Karima 2G, Nigar Sultana Tania, Penda Diallo, Ibrahim Kondeh, Loni Mjeshtri.
Thanks to the MACRO Asilo, Museum of Contemporary Art, Rome, directed by Giorgio de Finis.
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